First Dinner and then Desert

September 30, 2018 Off By resignatedsurvivors

It’s only been two weeks since we embarked upon the RSBA, but we have already experienced so much that it feels like a lifetime ago that we departed from England’s shores. We’ve spent the past week exploring the magnificent state of Rajasthan, home to innumerable ancient forts, palaces, lakes and stunning architecture, as well as a few other surprises.

We started the week in Rajasthan’s capital city, Jaipur. Wandering through the famous Amber Fort, we were awe-struck by the intricate detail with which the Rajasthanis adorned their homes. Complex carvings of peacocks, hand painted patterns into marble and glistening mirrored tea rooms were just a few of the beauties that make this place stand out as being a sparkling jewel in India’s crown. 

The famous Amber Fort in Jaipur glowing at sunset with its vivid amber coloured stone. The lake is now green in recent times due to the sheer amount of algae.

Whilst we could continue forever about the architecture, the real business awaits… the FOOD! Being the self-proclaimed foodies that we are, and ignoring every possible warning about eating non-vegetarian food in India, we have gorged like maharajahs and maharanis on the finest platters of Rajasthani curries, dahls, meats and breads that we could find. It has become the norm for Mr RS to pass out from meat sweats on a daily basis, only to wake up and start all over again the next day. This has been no mean feat either, given that a vast majority of Indians are vegetarian Hindus and meat is essentially contraband in many places. Like most things, it’s a case of knowing the “right” people – seek and you shall find, friends!

Pushkar at sunset from the Savitri Hilltop Temple.

Speaking of Hindus, we made a pit stop at the town of Pushkar, one of the most holy places in India, where the lives of locals, hippie travellers, holy cows (quite literally, we have never seen so many) and babas (holy priests) intertwine seamlessly in the bustling market surrounding the holy lake, whose centrepoint is the temple of Lord Brahma. The vibe was much more “chilled” than other parts of India, the reasons for which are probably obvious if anyone has even vaguely heard of the babas and their habits (ask Googlebaba* if you don’t know what I mean). We met some wonderful and colourful people here, and we were grateful for the short break away from the madness of the big cities. 

One of the babas from Pushkar who kindly posed for me. He is sufficiently decked out in funky jewellery and is definitely high on "life"

To complete the snapshot of this weeks’ travels, and the undoubted highlight of the RSBA so far, we found ourselves spending a night in the open air in the middle of the Thar desert near Jaisalmer, gazing up at the Milky Way with only the moonlight for company (well that as well as a few camels, a couple of stray dogs, some desert mice, hundreds of dung beetles, some desert scorpions and sand snakes). Watching the moonrise (yes, dear city-dwellers, this is a thing) against the silhouette of rolling sand dunes and camel humps was truly magical and although I am positively cringing whilst writing this, I finally got my “Whole New World” moment with my prince (cue “awwwws” and exaggerated wretching sounds). Even better was waking up to the sunrise appearing over the dunes, an authentic Rajasthani breakfast cooked over a campfire and a strong shot of masala chai to set us off on the next part of our adventure. 

The Milky Way as seen from the Thar Desert. This is the first time we have ever seen such a clear sky with no city lights ruining the scene, let alone the Milky Way. Mind blowing!
What, you thought we had tents? We weren't kidding when we said it was out in the open! From here we witnessed the moonrise and the sunrise, from the comfort of our beds.

And so continues our love affair with India…until next week friends.

Much Love,

The Resignated Survivors

*We were delighted to learn this is a phrase that people actually use!

Lowlight of the week: Our first experience of an overnight bus in India (11 long hours!) between Pushkar and Jaisalmer. Essentially travelling in a dark, insect-infested sleeper coffin (sorry, I meant cabin), whilst being suffocated by the overwhelming stench of p*ss and other noxious substances, the bus shaking violently the whole way there and you unleashing your inner Hindu and silently praying to the babas that be that you make it out alive and haven’t caught anything.

Other notable things: The hospitality of the Rajasthani people was so refreshing. We were fortunate enough to be invited for tea at the home of our dear desert guide Lallu, and were humbled to be given an insight into his family life (and bear witness to his opium habit – see below). 

Lessons learned: Opium is a widely consumed substance amongst Rajasthanis, and although technically illegal in India, it is an ancient practice particularly among the older generation. They steep the opium seeds in their raw form into water (a bit like tea) and drink it, resulting in the user becoming rather red-eyed but very happy. Do not try this at home folks! 

Our guide Lallu paying his respects to an elderly friend from the village by feeding him a freshly brewed bowl of opium water.