First Dinner and then Desert
It’s only been two weeks since we embarked upon the RSBA, but we have already experienced so much that it feels like a lifetime ago that we departed from England’s shores. We’ve spent the past week exploring the magnificent state of Rajasthan, home to innumerable ancient forts, palaces, lakes and stunning architecture, as well as a few other surprises.
We started the week in Rajasthan’s capital city, Jaipur. Wandering through the famous Amber Fort, we were awe-struck by the intricate detail with which the Rajasthanis adorned their homes. Complex carvings of peacocks, hand painted patterns into marble and glistening mirrored tea rooms were just a few of the beauties that make this place stand out as being a sparkling jewel in India’s crown.
Whilst we could continue forever about the architecture, the real business awaits… the FOOD! Being the self-proclaimed foodies that we are, and ignoring every possible warning about eating non-vegetarian food in India, we have gorged like maharajahs and maharanis on the finest platters of Rajasthani curries, dahls, meats and breads that we could find. It has become the norm for Mr RS to pass out from meat sweats on a daily basis, only to wake up and start all over again the next day. This has been no mean feat either, given that a vast majority of Indians are vegetarian Hindus and meat is essentially contraband in many places. Like most things, it’s a case of knowing the “right” people – seek and you shall find, friends!
Speaking of Hindus, we made a pit stop at the town of Pushkar, one of the most holy places in India, where the lives of locals, hippie travellers, holy cows (quite literally, we have never seen so many) and babas (holy priests) intertwine seamlessly in the bustling market surrounding the holy lake, whose centrepoint is the temple of Lord Brahma. The vibe was much more “chilled” than other parts of India, the reasons for which are probably obvious if anyone has even vaguely heard of the babas and their habits (ask Googlebaba* if you don’t know what I mean). We met some wonderful and colourful people here, and we were grateful for the short break away from the madness of the big cities.
To complete the snapshot of this weeks’ travels, and the undoubted highlight of the RSBA so far, we found ourselves spending a night in the open air in the middle of the Thar desert near Jaisalmer, gazing up at the Milky Way with only the moonlight for company (well that as well as a few camels, a couple of stray dogs, some desert mice, hundreds of dung beetles, some desert scorpions and sand snakes). Watching the moonrise (yes, dear city-dwellers, this is a thing) against the silhouette of rolling sand dunes and camel humps was truly magical and although I am positively cringing whilst writing this, I finally got my “Whole New World” moment with my prince (cue “awwwws” and exaggerated wretching sounds). Even better was waking up to the sunrise appearing over the dunes, an authentic Rajasthani breakfast cooked over a campfire and a strong shot of masala chai to set us off on the next part of our adventure.
And so continues our love affair with India…until next week friends.
Much Love,
The Resignated Survivors
*We were delighted to learn this is a phrase that people actually use!
Lowlight of the week: Our first experience of an overnight bus in India (11 long hours!) between Pushkar and Jaisalmer. Essentially travelling in a dark, insect-infested sleeper coffin (sorry, I meant cabin), whilst being suffocated by the overwhelming stench of p*ss and other noxious substances, the bus shaking violently the whole way there and you unleashing your inner Hindu and silently praying to the babas that be that you make it out alive and haven’t caught anything.
Other notable things: The hospitality of the Rajasthani people was so refreshing. We were fortunate enough to be invited for tea at the home of our dear desert guide Lallu, and were humbled to be given an insight into his family life (and bear witness to his opium habit – see below).
Lessons learned: Opium is a widely consumed substance amongst Rajasthanis, and although technically illegal in India, it is an ancient practice particularly among the older generation. They steep the opium seeds in their raw form into water (a bit like tea) and drink it, resulting in the user becoming rather red-eyed but very happy. Do not try this at home folks!
High?I mean hiya?I mean oh never mind we are travelling with you again experiencing your highs!! and lows. Wonderful Mum xx
Great post! On the overnight bus you didn’t need to pray to the babas; do as they do and become ‘high on life’ and the bus journey would have been bearable… Next time
Brilliant post. You have literally captured all the substance of Rajasthan !!!
I thoroughly enjoyed going through Rajasthan with you just now. It sounds magical! But sand snakes?! No thank you. You guys are so brave!
Glad you found your inner Hindu to help you through that God awful bus journey. Sounds horrific.
Really enjoyed that read. They just keep getting better. Can’t wait for the next one xxx
Be safe… Benny
Another brilliant post guys… the Milky Way and stars in a clear night sky is something I REALLY want to see in person, but for now your description of the experience and that picture will do just fine!
Your picture of the Milkyway just amazed me. Makes you realise how insignificant things are. I love the style of writing it guides you along and makes you feel your there. Are you both sharing the writing?
This end in la la land. Strictly started someone I don’t even know was voted off this Sunday. A lot of B listers this year but it’s car crash TV so I engage. We know who shot Stuart in Eastenders, himself. What a stupid story but I’m a glutton for this dross. We’re having an Indian summer here, apparently. It was 22/24 degrees over the wknd. Brexit will be sorted by the time you get back so no worries. Keep living the dream. Look forward to the next instalment. Look after each other. TC.
Your picture of the Milkyway just amazed me. Makes you realise how insignificant things are. I love the style of writing it guides you along and makes you feel your there. Are you both sharing the writing?
This end in la la land. Strictly started someone I don’t even know was voted off this Sunday. A lot of B listers this year but it’s car crash TV so I engage. We know who shot Stuart in Eastenders, himself. What a stupid story but I’m a glutton for this dross. We’re having an Indian summer here, apparently. It was 22/24 degrees over the wknd. Brexit will be sorted by the time you get back so no worries. Keep living the dream. Look forward to the next instalment. Look after each other. TC.
Great post, you guys are painting such a vibrant and amazing picture of India! Highs and lows will be had everywhere, keep going! Looking forward to the next post xxx
When I was in India I have travelled 25hours by train,it was unforgettable advanture:)Great post and pictures!
Sounds like a “whole new world” literally. Great write up on your adventures. Can’t wait for the next one. It’s a bit like watching a series and waiting a whole week for the next episode.
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