Family Fortunes

October 15, 2018 Off By resignatedsurvivors

This week, we both had the opportunity to explore our ancestral roots and go back to visit the places that our families originated from. These experiences were incredibly personal and so we thought we’d treat you to our individual perspectives (guest writer: Mr RS):

Rajkot: Perspectives from Mr RS

Roughly 18 years have passed since I last visited my paternal homeland. That is, specifically, the city of Rajkot in Gujarat. Here I was reunited with family whom I’ve spent some of my childhood with as well as new humans I’ve never met (wives and kids mainly!). This is all lovely however the hardest part of all this? Visiting so many people without my parents! Yes, I’m a fully-fledged adult and perfectly capable of meeting family unsupervised however this was no ordinary feat for one main reason… Gujarati (our mother tongue).

If you ask my parents they will tell you my Gujarati is questionable at best. It certainly is passable and enough to get by. I consider myself to be fluent… if 80% verbal and 0% written is the minimum requirement for fluency. Back in London, I very rarely have a need to speak in Gujarati so I’m not well practised, so four days of intense Gujarati speaking was certainly challenging. The few days we spent there were actually amazing. I managed to uphold good conversation in the mother tongue, but more importantly, got to know my family all over again. We got to see my grandparents’ home (albeit only from outside) where my father grew up with his eight siblings.

My Grandparents' house in Rajkot, aptly named "Khira Niwas" which translates as The House of Khira

Over the four days we spent most of our waking hours conversing, eating and laughing with family old and young as well as fending off the countless attempts at trying to feed us 173% above capacity. Overall it was a frantic four days with little time for rest, however I wouldn’t have had it any other way. We met so many people from my childhood and built new memories together. Most importantly, introducing them all to my beautiful wife filled me with such pride. 

Jadeshwar Mahadev Temple where my family have a deep rooted history and have been praying here for decades
Inside the Jadeshwar Mahadev Temple resides the shrine

Navsari: Perspectives from Mrs RS

 

It’s been almost two decades since I first stepped foot in the motherland, but coming back here as a proper grown up has brought around a whole new raft of emotions. By “here” I mean Navsari, southern Gujarat, the ancestral home to the paternal side of the Mrs RS family. For those of you who are close to us, you will know that last year we lost the cornerstone of our family, my grandad (Bapa), and so coming back to his hometown has been an incredibly moving but ultimately fulfilling experience. 

The newly constructed community centre in the village of Munsad

We visited the village of Munsad, just outside of the main town of Navsari. It was here that Bapa was born, and just last year the construction of a community centre was completed here on a plot of land that had been generously gifted by him to the people of Munsad. Seeing the place in person, dedicated to the memory of Bapa’s parents and late daughter, and seeing his photo hung up on the wall inside made me feel so proud and grateful that he has been memorialised, and there will always be a place I can go to feel his presence. My dad (yes we met up with mummy and daddy here!) also took the opportunity to show us where he spent his summers as a child, in no less than a tiny building bound together by mud (by “mud” I actually mean dried up cow dung) that served as his grandparents’ home. This was the traditional method used to build village houses and as we saw, it is still used today. It has been so humbling to see how simply our family lived only a matter of fifty years ago, and it has been eye-opening to witness the progress we have made over the past two generations. I have made a promise to myself to never take for granted the comfortable lives we are living, the opportunities available to us that our ancestors could only have dreamed of, and to always remember that monetary wealth can be fleeting, but it’s the relationships we build and type of people we become that will last beyond a lifetime. 

Believe it or not, this is where my great grandmother used to cook. The cooker was a mere pit in the floor.

Highlight of the week: We happened to be in Gujarat during the festival of Navratri, where for nine nights people dress up in their finest traditional wear and dance “garba”, a group dance involving a series of co-ordinating steps, going around in a circle. Although we’ve celebrated Navratri plenty of times back home in the U.K., the experience in the motherland was unlike anything we have ever seen. People practice the latest dance moves in their teams, wear matching outfits and compete for various prizes, late, late into the night (it felt rather like being in an Indian version of Bring it On). The atmosphere was buzzing to say the least, the sound deafening, and the sheer joy it brought to everyone was clear to see. We even plucked up the courage to give it a go ourselves, only to be swiftly out-danced by the “pros” and shamefully left to become mere spectators from the comfort of an inconspicuous corner. For the sake of my feet, I think it was better that way. 

Lessons learned: This week marked our first experience of the Indian railway system, the biggest and most complex railway network in the world. We endured a nine-hour train journey from Rajkot to Surat, and were pleasantly surprised to see that they provide freshly washed bed linen. If planning an overnight journey, trains are far more pleasant than buses (see two posts ago for our experience of those) but it pays to know the approximate arrival time of the train at your destination, as no one will tell you when you’ve arrived (and there are no such things as announcements and all the signs on the platforms are in Hindi). Confusing!

Rajkot Train Station at 5am